Because it’s a sealed small room, it also likely needs to be something that won’t be a hazard if we inhale the gases. This was the first time the wood had been oiled, unless that is when it leaves the factory they put oil onto the wood. I have no idea what i need! And if there is anything further that I can help with please do let me know. regards rig. What I am looking for is an oil that will provide some tint, but preferably on the golden yellow side, preferably not dark or reddish. I’ve power-washed it which got it pretty clean but . I am using White oak. You have a few different options for a finish, 1. Can you suggest a good oil to finish it please. I’ve started sanding back the woodwork and it’s coming up well, but some parts of the window mouldings are looking worn and I’m worried the wood will deteriorate further. You can email to wood@finishes.direct and I will see what I can recommend for you. Further to my question above (still awaiting moderation) about my sepele hall table Samantha, my son would actually like a high gloss finish. And the wood may mark easily with for example cup stains or moisture. A clear oil will slightly darken the tone of the wood and enhance the grain and you are able to get an idea of this by wiping a damp cloth over the surface of the wood. Would you kindly give me a step by step process on how I would attempt this and which oils you would recommend? Is it for indoors or outdoors and what purpose will it be serving? After the second application, it has remained sticky for a week, probably because I didn’t wipe off the excess soon enough. As such, you want to be a little more careful when applying it to the surface of your wood. In its cheaper form, it is basically an artificial substitute for tung oil. I would not advise Olive Oil for a decking treatment, it will not be durable enough and is unlikely to last very long. Another great food safe option is using all natural Tung Oil to protect your wood carvings. I’d like to keep the neutral colour and don’t mind a soft sheen but don’t want a high gloss finish. While it doesn’t give you the same sheen as the other oils we’ve talked about, it’s perfect for things like kitchen chopping boards where you need a non-toxic finish. I’m thinking Tried & True or Food grade Osmo oil because they seem to have the lightest touch. I have found someone to help me by lightly sanding the surface and re-oiling it. Outdoor wood sculpture can take many forms, from animal to human to abstract. Could you please advise of treatments to use to protect the wood and waterproof it as much as possible. Thanks for the quick response. It is a pine desk and the lid has warped. And these Cotton Rags would be ideal for doing this. Go for Osmo Polyx, it’s specially designed for wooden floors. If the floor is exposed to heavy traffic, you may need to renew the coating frequently. It should give you and idea how it will look. All this to say that I decided to lightly sand them in order to remove the areas where epoxy had run and the areas with water spots. It is however more of a Matt finish. We have carried out many tests with this product for liquid resistance and durability and it stands up well against most things as long as it is applied correctly. Here at Wood finishes Direct we believe that most veneers would be okay with oil, because the oil only soaks into the first 1mm of the surface of the wood, and many veneers are 3mm or more and so would not have an effect on the adhesive. which oil is best for wooden cutley handles. The good thing about oils is that they are easy to patch repair and will blend well for situations such as yours. Varnishes and polyurethanes are designed for different purposes. I don’t want any sort of varnish containing oil, just some type of oil. However, I did ask a second question earlier: I have sanded it back, and now need to seal and finish it. Apply the oil gently with a high-quality rag. Sunnyside would be perfect for your situation, it’s designed especially for that type of wooden pieces. And remember the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra needs to be applied very thinly and a light sand between coats will give a superior finish. Can you get in touch via our contact us page, with details of how you applied the varnish and if you denibbed between coats and what with ? If you have a read up of the product and feel free to let me know if you have any questions. They are outside and by the ocean (salt water). But why you want to use oil? This is because the oil is sticky and somewhat hard to use. The wood will only take so much oil and will then be saturated. You might want to consider putting a Preservative on first for the best protection. I want to keep the furniture to the shades of pale to mid brown if possible. Any advice would be very gratefully received. These oils provide excellent resistance to water splashes and will also help to keep the wood nourished and supple, especially good for the pieces close to the Aga. Hi there, I have just acquired a large bear wood carving, which has been indoors for some months and is starting to crack, so I want to oil it with something before I put it outside in the garden. If you like the silvering effect of the Sun then the Teak Oil requires less coats but has a longer drying time and the Danish Oil has a shorter drying time but needs more coats. I am building an outdoor dining table and will be making the top out of red cedar. "@type": "Answer", Then an Oil top coat to protect Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra for a clear finish or Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain for a coloured finish. Internally I have rubbed them back to bear wood and was going to use a an osmo oil which is clear to show the wood off. floor. 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